For Altezza RS200 with Factory Nav and Screen.


The following install has not yet been completed, but each stage has been tested.
Its time to write and share the problems.

Stage one - Picture on the Factory Screen (FS) from a computer.:P

I have located the cable that has the wires feeding RGB colours and sync to the FS.
This cable runs from the Factory Nav Computer (FNC) in the boot direct to the FS
and can be accessed at both ends.
I have purchased and installed a "Video to RGB/Sync Converter" ( from
http://www.carconverters.com.au/products/S...verter/236.html ) in the
boot next to the FNC.


Decided to install all of gear in the boot rather than try and get it all
up front under the dash or in the glove box.

Basically the video TV output (NTSC or PAL) from a EPIA Mini-ITX MII10000
motherboard goes to the "Video to RGB/sync converter" to the FS.
One switch to change inside this converter and its pictures on the screen.

The converter also has a second video input that can be used for a camera, wiring is
provided to connect to reverse switch etc..... This is possibly about stage ten.


The converter setup also provides a bypass feature so when the car goes back to Japan
the Factory Nav will still work.
I'm also looking at a plug to allow removal of the converter and restore the wiring back to
factory - just in case a newer model Altezza is required.<_<

On my Altezza wiring colours for this cable are as follows:

Wire Colour Function.

Green Green Colour Signal
Black Sync
Red Red Colour Signal
Yellow Blue Colour Signal
White Signal Ground
Shield

Documentation comes with the converter details wires etc, I can detail this later if anyone wants it.




Stage Two - Audio from computer to Factory Head Unit (FHU) selected via TV button on FHU.

On the left hand side looking into the boot hidden behind a metal brace is the TV thingee
from Toyota. This unit has a cable that goes directly to the FHU and in this cable are the
audio leads +L -L and +R -R.
It just so happens that when the TV button is pressed these leads
connect audio from the TV thingee to the FHU.
Again these can be accessed at either end.

Wiring colours for my Altezza.

+L Yellow
-L Green
+R Black
-R Red
Shield

I have chopped these wires at the TV thingee end and reconnected using coloured RCA plugs and sockets
this allows the wires to be reconnected when I change Altezza.
The RCA socket is connected on the wires going to the FHU.
A RCA to RCA lead with adapter is used to connect Audio from the computer to the FHU.

Note these leads and plugs should be insulated to prevent contact with car electrical system.
ie do not ground these leads.


Stage Three - Resolve problem when TV switch is pressed video input changes.

Individually Video and sound work ok, however when the TV button is pressed the video to
the FS is changed now getting input from the TV thingee or head unit, and not the Video Converter.

Still working on this.



Stage Four - Wiring from computer in boot to items at front of car.

This is DVD drive via USB, possibly mouse and keyboard.
ON/Off switch and possibly reset switch.

DVD drive to be mounted in central console.

This is to be done in the car but has been tested on the bench.


Stage Five - Computer Operating System and TV card

Currently working on this, proposed Linux Fedora Core 4 with Low profile
Hauppauge PVR-150 TV card, using Mythtv software product that allows TV, FM radio
MP3 music.

Stage Six - GPS on computer.

I have done some basic tests of a product GPSDRIVE that runs under Linux, in principle
it works good, using a small mouse like GPS receiver that can be mounted in the rear parcel shelf.
Back window.
Maps are a challenge but can be obtained and made. :angry: :angry: :angry:[SIZE=7][SIZE=7]

Nice work Colin! That's exactly what I'd be looking into doing if I'd ended up with a dead weight sat nav system in my Altezza. As it happens I've got one that doesn't have sat nav... Anyway...

Audio Mod - Prior to Change:


Audio Mod - RCA Connectors:


Audio Mod - Ready to Connect to Computer:


Audio Mod - Location of Unit for Audio Mod:


Video Mod - Location of Video Converter:

Video Mod - Wiring Factory Cable to Video Converter:


Just to Show it gets there.
Fedora Login:


This is the front end menu for MYTHTV.
Sorry about the focus, the ideas there:


Another out of Focus shot for Music Menu:

Right, methinks this oughta be pinned... So it has... :) Very informative Colin! Wishing I did have the sat nav screen in mine now...

Good to see you're not running Microsoft in there. ;)

Yep need it to work , there are some windoze products that are not too bad.

Cheers

Head Unit Wiring Connections:

You have done some serious work here. Thanx for that Colin. I dont have GPS system on my car so cant say that I have ever needed or had the chance to look into this.

Your post is worth every penny.

Cheers.

Having changed cars, I have made some minor mods, to tidy things up, and make it easier to change equipment between cars.
Second car of course did not have all the equipment that the first had, so have modified the audio connections, the RCA plus and sockets are now inserted in the car wiring loom.

Between the nav converter and the video converter I'm now using 9 pin DE plugs and sockets.
When the video converter is removed a prewired socket is connected onto the plug in the wiring, this reverts back to factory wiring. :rolleyes:

MKII Audio wiring:


MKII Wiring to Video Converter:

hey since i have taken out my standard headunit i guess i cant run tv or sat on it. but was wondering if its possible to fit in a ps2 to play movies on it, by plugging the video into the screen( are there video input plugs or do i need to adapt one into it) and two audio to the headdeck

Tezza has a system where all units talk to each other, ie factory head, nav computer, tv module and factory screen.
If you take one out (say the headunit) you need to electronically tell the other units that
the heads still there, however the headunits the unit that looks for the others.

I'm going to say it can't be done without a lot of work. And no I'm
not prepared to do that. <_<

Cheers

try this. if you cant get it to work, get it modified!!!

I will do mine next week.

http://my.is/forums/showthread.php?t=154156

Some more Pics updating some changes and progress with software.

Note change from Linux Software to Windows XP Pro, using Centralfuse application as main interface.

http://www.fluxmedia.net/

Centre Panel has the human switch type interface to the computer in the boot, power on, reset, 2 x USB sockets, Infra Red receiver to interface with the factory Joystick unit or a standard remote unit. Power on led and hard disk led. DVD player.

Currently the computer case is large and I'm not taking photos of it (too embrassed). New small car designed case coming soon.

Note new TRD Leather Gear Knob very nice:


Aux Battery in Boot to help smooth out the rough stuff coming from car cranking etc:


Battery all in and secure:


Major distraction for driving, currently set as screen background.
Orange needs to be darker to match Altezza panels lamps:

Media Menu for Centralfuse (there is other music than Fleetwood Mac):


Main Menu:


Menu - Yes OBDII interface:


Just to show its on the Factory Screen:


Nav supplied with Centralfuse - does not have NZ maps.
Looking at a NZ software package Memory Map Topo to provide the
GPS Map interface:

That is fo freakin' cool man, I'm definitely gonna have to give that a go next time I have a spare few thousand dollars lying around...

Wowsers! I want something like this in my IS300!!!

Wonder if someone in Sydney can do it for me..?

Why not ask CPUfix if he can do your car and you buy him a plane ticket to Syndey hehehehehe we can all watch :)

Plane ticket and ................... ;)

OK time to dampen peoples ideas, heres a rough list of parts and cost, NZ GST not
included. Prices are NZ $.

Computer Unit comprising $ 1200.00
Computer case VOOMPC-enclosure
Motherboard EPIA MII10000
RAM 512 MB (DDR226)
Power Supply Unit Minibox PW-200-M
Hard Disk 2.5" 80GB
Slim DVD/CD-RW

Techway G Mouse GPS Receiver and Cable $ 100.00

TV to RGB Converter $ 325.00

Windows XP pro OEM $ 220.00

Reversing Camera $ 55.00

Aux Battery $ 50.00

Genius Presentation Pointer $ 85.00


Cables, switches, leds, electronic components $ 250.00

NZ Mapping Software $ 225.00

Centralfuse software estimated $ 100.00


So without labour its about $ 2525.00 :blink: :o

And as always this is proably on the light side, so if anyone one wants one
built and installed for around $ 3500.00 then send me a PM. :rolleyes: rofl

Hi colin, How does the DVD ROM handle with driving conditions? Looking into much the same kind of setup, but maybe not as sophisticated as yours? I will be running simple programs etc... I take it you have the VoomPC enclosure for now? And where have you mounted it? I am thinking of making up a panel, and mounting inside the tyrewell, with a hinge, so if you need to get the "space saver" out, it will be esay enough, but up to some other ideas if easier?

Cheers. Matt

Hi Matt

Have not tried this yet, while driving

These are the mounting screw locations:


And VoomPC-Enclosure to be fitted as so:

hi there

Great info on the HU wiring, my question is wioth out the TV, can you make it go into that mode so somethig like an Ipod can work off the inputs? I see the speaker inputs, but do you have to loop somthing off the loom for it to think the tv is there?

Thanks

Hi Cheese

The audio from an ipod could be connected to these audio inputs.
When you then press the TV switch the ipod audio is connected directly to the HU (audio tv ) inputs and is controlled by the HU controls.

I've not tried it from an ipod, it sould be ok I run the computer audio out to these leads, have found that the audio input level is low and needs the volume on the HU turned up.

Hope this helps, happy to answer any other questions you may have.

Cheers

Colin.

Thanks for that colin, I'll give it a crack tonight. :) :)

Let us know how it goes may also help someone else. :rolleyes:

Cheers

Hey just a quick question.

What is

SQ
TX+
TX-
BU

I don't know what the function of these are. I'm thinking along the lines that ACC and Ground can be easily spliced into a Ipod charger and then I'll solder the Audio inputs onto the back of teh head unit and run a cable.

The other Question I have it, does your TV not work until you have the hand break on?


Cheers

Cheese

P.s. I'm a technician so it shouldn't be any trouble to hook it all up.

I think these are the leads from the remote unit to the HU.

TV is not supposed to work when the hand brake is off.


Cheers

I just found out today that this maybe easier than I thought. From What I know now the stereo is more or less a preamp and there is an amp behind teh glovebox in altezzas, so all you need to do is splice into the audio inputs and it **should** work. I'll have a play later on to see if it works.

If you have an amp in the glove box then you have the Sports Stereo system.

If you're retaining the factory units I'd suggest connect into the main head unit, what
you refer to as the pre amp.

Happy wiring let us know how it goes.


Cheers

Ah I just got pissed off adn pulled it all out and installed a new stereo.

Sounds 100 times better!!!

The only thing I did to make it easier, I desoldered the connector for the speakers etc and soldered wires direct to the head units inputs, when I install my amp I'll disconect the wires from the Head unit and run them to an amp under my seat. I'll wait till I get new speakers though. It was made easy because the factory amp had all the plugs labled on the PCB. THe only think I have to find now is the factory illumination wire.

The great thing about my sony HU, the stackers audio input is RCA, so all I have to do is have the stacker control pluged in and I can just plug the Ipod in adn hey presto, I've got ipod through the stereo and it's so clear! I've got to make up a cross over box that I can switch inputs on and it's sorted!

Colin,
Just want to say thanks a million !
Just spent like 40 mins ripping apart the rear and soldering and cutting to achieve the sound part of the install. I now have it hooked up to my IPOD and it works perfectly. Next stage and I believe this is an improvement on your design is to allow my ipod video to show up on the LCD for kareoke nights :P
I thought about spending $300+ on the video converter ~!
and so I looked around on trademe and I believe $80 second hand made in Japan DIVERTER units will do the trick. I couldn't wait so I headed to Jaycar to purchase a converter from there. After buying this... and yes it does work with the car... I thought to myself that using it with ipod would be good and all but I'm still missing TV !

So I recon you could plug in a TV tuner box... kinda like a card but standalone designed to work with LCD screens/CRT screen.
WHat I bought from Jaycar for $100NZ cheap cheap.. The bonus part is that it has an IR remote. Good unit but has no TV so not worth it.
JAYCAR VIDEO to VGA If anyone wants to buy this off my for $110 which I still have receipt for, please let me know and I'll post it to them for free. :)


This is what I think would do the trick for both AV composite to VGA as well as output TV to the screen hence solving the frequency issues with Japanese/NZ/AU TV Channels. This example is about $200 but I have a model I already use at home and I bought it for $100 a while back. I'll hunt around till I find a basic unit that will display TV and allow my IPOD video through to the screen
ASCENT


Some might say, what about the power supply ratings ? Well you can always get smart and build yourself a current limited regulator or just but a invertor/power pack.
Ohh and a note to cheese. The ipod sound quality coming out of the factory head unit sounds just as good as a Hi-Fi... well not that good but good enough for the car.

Here are the options That I've found:

Gemini
Gemini PC TV Tuner Box $60 HIGHLY RECOMMENDED


Connects to cameras/VCD/DVD/TV game player for best multimedia enjoyment.
1000 Channels with S & U Band with full Functional Remote control and OSD
Plug and play to any CRT Monitors with built in speakers.
Can also connect more speakers.
Also connects to PC with video output interface
Good Quality Full screen Picture with True Colors
Built in various funny games
Video out function
Safe and efficent external switching power supply suitable for 110v/220v
=====================================================
DYNALINK
DYNALINK PLUG & GO LCD TO TV CONVERTER - TV-F16 $150


• High Resolution TV on your PC Monitor
• External TV Tuner with Remote Control
• No Software or drivers required
• Compatible with Projectors, LCD and CRT Monitors
• Play Playstation, Games Cube and XBox on your PC Monitor
• Supports DVD/VCD/VCR/Camcorder and Games Console Devices
• Flexible Home and Office Entertainment
• USB Plug and Play Interface

The TV-F16 is an external TV tuner with S-video and RCA inputs which makes it ideal for game consoles and DVD players etc. This box will display TV/DVD or games onto your PC’s Monitor ether LCD or CRT. Includes VGA Cable, Audio Cable, Remote control, power adapter and batteries.
=====================================================
STLAB
STLab (TN-P05-1012) LCD TV Receiver BOX $120


Plug and Play Solution
Pure Hardware solution.
Can be connected to LCD/VGA monitor without passing through PC
Resolution support up to 1280 x 1024
Autoscan TV frequencies for available channels
PIP video-on VGA display mode ( you can watch TV in a movable, resizable window over your desktop when connected to a PC)
Systems supports : NTSC, PAL B, G, D, K, I.
3D motion adaptive de-interlace : kinds of digital image enhancement and digital noise reduction technology brings you genuine effect of domestic theater.
Supports multi-channel display to preview all channels' programs

Specifications:
Video input : DS1-57CH, Z1-38CH (470MHz full TV channel supplement)
Field frequency : 60Hz/75/Hz/200Hz
Line frequency : 31.5KHz to 48KHz
Antenna : 75O

Connectors:
Audio Out (L&R)
Video-In
Video-Out
S-Video In
VGA-Out
VGA-In
CATV
IrDA sensor

Accessories:
Manual
Remote Control
=====================================================
PLAYTV Box 3
PixelView PlayTV Box3 (Stereo Model) $140 I RECOMMENDED THIS BABY !! :woot:


Stand-alone without turn on PC.
No software drivers required!!
Output to a LCD monitor,,LCD projector.
Easily switch to TV,,Video display or PC display.
16:9 wide-screen (1280 x 768)Mode display.
SXGA ((1280 x 1024)Resolution.
Progressive Scan..
Auto-scan air/cable TV channels.
Support Frequency Scan..
Fine Tuner to Adjust TV Frequency..
Favorite Channel Setting.
De-Interlace ready!
Sleep Timer..
Video Input and Output..
Touch button in the front panel..
Full function remote controller..
Picture on Picture in Transparent Mode..(Stereo Model Only)
Component Video Input and Output...(Stereo Model Only)
NICAM /A2,BTSC Support.(Stereo Model Only)
TV Watching on LCD/CRT monitor
Use it when play your TV gamer, like PS / PS2 / XBOX.
Support 1280X1024 /1024x768/ 800X600 esolution.
Professional Picture-On-Picture function

Allow you watch TV while work on PC.
You can resize, change position wherever you want.
Transparent made allows image behind the small screen show through.
SXGA High Resolution
Wide screen display (1280 x 768).
1280 x 1024 resolution support.

Hi JACK

Looks great, and good pricing.
Main thing is that you've got a solution that works and at a reasonable price.

My main aim was to make use of the factory screen etc it bugged me that it was sitting there not been used.

Great to also see my work has also been useful to others.

For TV I'm looking at a USB TV adapter from Hauppauge, so it all works with the PC.


Cheers

yeah loved the idea with the PC ! Would be handy to have if I had a woosh connection and a wireless Keyboard !

This is for others who might want a little more help!


Pin # Signal Name
1 Red
2 Green
3 Blue
4 No Connect
5 Ground
6 Ground
7 Ground
8 Ground
9 No Connect
10 Ground
11 No Connect
12 DDC DAT
13 Horizontal Synchronization
14 Vertical Synchronization
15 DDC Clock
=====================================================
Here's a good set of figures for HD-DB-15 male and female connectors, as viewed from the pin side (not the solder side).

HD-DB-15 Female

HD-DB-15 Male

HD-DB-15 pins commonly used for VGA monitors:

Pin Name Direction Description
1 RED PC-to-monitor Red Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p)
2 GREEN PC-to-monitor Green Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p)
3 BLUE PC-to-monitor Blue Video (75 ohm, 0.7 V p-p)
4 ID2 Monitor-to-PC Monitor ID Bit 2
5 GND N/A Ground
6 RGND N/A Red Ground
7 GGND N/A Green Ground
8 BGND N/A Blue Ground
9 KEY N/A Key (No pin)
10 SGND N/A Sync Ground
11 ID0 Monitor-to-PC Monitor ID Bit 0
12 ID1 or SDA Monitor-to-PC Monitor ID Bit 1
13 HSYNC or CSYNC PC-to-monitor Horizontal Sync (or Composite Sync)
14 VSYNC PC-to-monitor Vertical Sync
15 ID3 or SCL Monitor-to-PC Monitor ID Bit 3
=====================================================

Hi Jack.

Just one thing all these devices you are considering look like they are VGA output.
If you're going to connect to the factory screen there would be a problem as it EGA not VGA.
This is the main reason I went from a TV output on the PC to a converter with EGA output to the factory screen.

Let us know if I'm missed something.

Cheers

http://www.converters.tv/converters/pal.html

Once of these may do the trick in that case.
But price goes up a fair bit too.

To connect to the factory screen you need EGA output from the converter
this unit does it and it works

http://www.carconverters.com.au/products/S...verter/236.html

Plus you can have camera on second video input.

Just a point of interest....where are you guys plugging your tv aerial in?

there is no option for a TV aerial, If you want TV reception, you will need to buy a TV tuner, with RCA output, and also one of the car converters, which colin has stated right at the start of this page. The screens on our cars, are only there for japanese navigations.