http://forum.altezzaclub.org.au/index.php?showtopic=49

Just tying the alignments into tyres & suspension

Greeneyes does the SXE10/GXE10/JCE10 all have the same alignment specs?

What specs should I run to have a mix of performance & good tyre life when I install my KW coilovers & 19" rims?

oops- never saw this- I would say not more than one to one&half neg camber on the rear, but if you like more than that then get extra rear toe-in added to stop the inner treads wearing away.

Keep more to the toe-in side of the factory specs at the front, rather than neutral or the toe-out end of the specs, because the six-cyls are prone to wear the inner edges off the tyres at the front with factory settings.

my wheel alignment yesterday with Spinning wheel..it set up for Road but have been advised that they can set it up for track when I need it.

heres mine :S aparently i have a bent rear right upper arm and have run out of adjustment on the right side help anyone?

well depends how its bent but by the looks of things its bent to give it excessive negative camber, so theyve turned the adjusting cam thingy in the arm to try and bring it out so its more straight up and down that it is but the adjuster can only adjust it so far, so thats about as good as its going to get without replacing the arm.

Looks like the left hand side is running quite a bit of camber too, although this might be just to try and even it up a bit. Not to sure what the exact specs for a Altezza's/IS rear camber is though, i think theres a specs list here somewhere though

well ok got my wheels aligned yesterday. its gone from the one posted above to pretty much almost dead even all round.

front left: Camber: - 0.34 degrees
toe: + 0.00 degrees

front right: Camber: - 0.33 degrees
toe: - 0.00 degrees

rear left: Camber: -1.45 degrees
toe: -0.02 degrees

rear right: Camber: -1.43 degrees
toe: -0.02 degrees

Done at Marks and Wallings Tyres West Ryde (there measurment tools clamp onto the tyre compared to Spinning Wheels which clamp onto the rim) i'll post up the proper document when I get the chance. but I don't think they adjust caster etc for the $77 I payed. might take it back because the steering still likes to goto the right just slightly.

Damm those cars must understeer! 1/3Deg camber at the front and 1&1/2 at the back.. lots of cornering grip at the back and not much at the front.

I like Neg 1deg camber on all four wheels.

Still, better than Spinning Wheels got it, unless you've changed the upper arm Wez.

Actually, Spinning Wheels got a couple of good reports on here didn't they? I can't understand how they couldn't get the camber under -2deg when Marks& Wallings managed it..

You will have to watch for inner tread wear on the front with the toe-in they never gave it! :lol:

So what specs should we run?

I have arranged to have my Tein Flex's installed next week, hopefully I will get a wheel alignment also on the day

I like negative one degree camber at both ends. That's within the factory specs of
front camber: +15min to -1deg15min
rear camber: -10min to -1deg40min

Toe-in varies with the amount of camber, so you would only need a couple of mm at each end. The alignment tech should know roughly how much to give it for the camber you ask for. Remind them that IS200s tend to toe-out wear on the front tyres!

If you lower the car too much you will run out of camber adjustment on the rear, and will not be able to get less than -2deg or so. All you can do is make sure they give you the least negative camber in that case, so long as it is even on both wheels. Then with more rear camber you will need more toe-in to stop the tyres chewing the inside treads off.

I'm using-

Rear axle-

Camber left -1deg09', right -1deg15'

Toein left 1.1mm, right 1.0mm Total 2.1mm toein.

Front axle-

Camber left -1deg11', right -1deg08'

Toein left 0.5mm, right 0.6mm Total 1.1mm toein.

But if you read the two topics on wheel alignments you will see the settings vary quite a bit between cars.

Put up the before and after figures! You will see how fitting lower suspension completely screws your wheel alignment and handling!

The 1.1mm toein wasn't enough, as eventually it showed toe-out wear by shaving off the very inside tread. The trouble is, did the alignment get 're-aligned by a pothole along the way??

yeh with the figures from spinning wheels and tyres the car was lower and ran out of adjustment at the rear since then i have raised the rear by about 5mm and just by the new specs it helps a lot. Well the ride height i'm running at is what I would recommend to anyone driving in Sydney its probably the safest low ride height to go with all those uneven surfaces and what not.

Ah, that explains it Wez! What do you reckon the height is you have it at now?

Measure from the ground to the highest part of the mudguard arch by the wheel. Mine are just under 650mm front and rear.

hey
My Wheel Alignment is:
rear camber
Left: -2.51'
Right: -2.32'

rear toe L&R: +0,06"
Total toe: +0.12"

Front camber
Left: -1.44'
Right: -1.06'

Front toe L&R: +0,04"
Total toe: +0,09"

just want to know the amount of Toe i should have with this much Camber??

because my last set of tyres it was ALL bald on the inside and there was HEAPS of tyre lefted on the outer 3/4 of the tyres.

thx in advanced. :D

Is that 9minutes of a degree? Some places work in mm toein and some work in degrees.

You obviously need more toein than you had, and they should have listed the figures from before the alignment as well as the after ones, so you can compare them & see what they did.

With 425mm rims (17inch) then 10minutes of toein equates to 1.2mm. I think you will need more than that.

I had 1mm put on each side, and after our 2500km up North recently I found the inner tread wear as well.

I took a 1mm drill bit, loosened the locknut on one side and screwed the steering arm out 1mm, using the drill bit to get it right.

Now I'll wait a few thousand km and watch it carefully.

Mind you, with the trash roads around here the potholes may re-align it for me quite frequently! :(

yea keith its all in degrees not mm,
so how much total toe should i hav appox. so i dnt get as much inner wear?
the rear im more worried about because as you know im still young and drive like crazy :woot:

but i hav found that i have alot of understeer with the set-up now, i think its because of my camber at the rear. but i cnt get any more postive camber as my car is LOW, but i mite get a camber kit so i can get more adjusment out of it.

Just remember a camber kit isnt always the solution to the problem!

As when you are low you still need to run negative camber for the tyres to clear the guards, plus the camber kit only corrects your camber under static loads.

Yes, the camber kit may help you rub the tyres against the guards.. :lol:

OK- yes, with all that rear camber you can expect understeer. Ways to overcome it are not nice, like putting toe-out on the rear & blowing away the inside of those tyres! So see if you can get some camber off the rear wheels with a kit.

...or think if you REALLY need it that low at the rear. Raising it 10mm might make quite a difference with less camber.

However, its worth looking for 3mm toe-in on the front, that would be 25 to 30minutes. About twice to three times what you have. Ozaristo ran 3.6mm with -1.25deg camber, and Reggie had 3mm toe-in with -3/4deg camber. xnickx had massive camber with only 1mm of toein and the tyres lasted 4000km I think it was.

In the end, I don't know any ultimate figures, its all a matter of watching the tyre wear carefully.

If you have a a 1mm drill bit you can do exactly what I did and add a mm to each side quite easily. ...or a set of feeler gauges would do the same, anything that easily measures 1mm when you push it in a crack between the locknut and the steering balljoint.

Whats your opinion on mine? had a bad encounter with a pothole on the front left and had to replace lower arm 1 and lower arm 2 to get the castor back...



:rolleyes:

Huh! They could have done a better job with the front camber!

The castor has come right, and the 10min toein is exactly the stock 1.2mm OK.

But the camber is neg0.33 on one side and neg0.87 on the other. They could have evened those up with a bit of work. They've given you a worse camber difference than when you started, which is why its in red.

They did a better job on the back, that looks OK.

How's the handling changed?? Feel the same going into left and right hand corners?

yea thanks very much everyone,
that mean these guys that do wheel alignment hav know idea wat there doing,
yea then mayb this set of tyre is going to go pretty quickly i say.
lol i been leaving some tyre marks all over town hehee

Yup I still have these setup in the car

haha- I thought you had the other setup Reg!

Those front tyres will rip the inner tread off with that track setup! Don't drive it unless you HAVE to! :lol:

actually the tyres are behaving well. It has even wear through out...mind you I'm using hankook K104s that is a bit hard compound.

Any recommendations on places for wheel alignment? I'm in Auckland

Wairau Alignment 444-4994
They do a few race cars etc and are really onto it, quite a few members from here have had their cars done there with only good reports

thanks Nick

Wairau is a bit far especially with the price of petrol now days as im in South. how about firestone?

Howdy :)

Just in follow-up to originally posted here http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclu...hp?showtopic=49

I got a new wheel alignment done, Dave Hadley Tyres/The Shock Shop in Lower Hutt.
The specs I requested were -0.75 degree camber front, 1mm toe-in front. -1 deg camber rear and 1mm toe-in rear.
I also made a note to tell them to spray the bolts before they had a go at it, because the car hadn't been adjusted for quite some time.

The guy who did the alignment didn't get the alignment done to the specs mentioned, claiming that he couldn't get the camber movement?

He also claimed that it looked like someone had taken a grinder :blink: to the rear left because 'the area where the adjustment 'rolls against looked like it had been ground away' :unsure:

So I ask for your advice, is it possible this could be true, or more likely someone is telling me stories to cover up the fact they couldn't do the job properly?

Is there anyway I can tell for myself, if I get the car looked at by another mechanic? The Toyota dealer who did my service didn't comment on it, but they didn't get to do an alignment because I needed tyres replaced first.

HELP!

ps the end specs I got are -0.54 camber, 0.6mm toe-in front. -1 deg camber rear and 0.0mm toe-in left rear and -0.3mm toe-in right rear.
The pic of the previous alignment figures is in the thread link above.

hey mate

I did one the other day at my work (Capital City Ford in Porirua) it was my workmates mrs's car, and i got a really good wheel alignment out of it, it was about as good as it was going to get

If i remember from the meet last year sometime, you car is still all factory??

If you want i could give you car a go sometime at work, i not sure how much we charge, i think we have a standard charge for a wheel alignment, weather its basic, or takes a good hour and a bit like the other i did the other day.

I usually do the wheel alignments on our new cars and what not, and i maintain our wheel alignment equipment and calibrate it regularly.

Let me know if you're interested B)

look at the picture here Ard-

http://forum.altezzaclub.org.au/index.php?showtopic=49

The camber washer pushes against the the little hump pushed out in the lower swing arm. Maybe he reckons that was ground off... crazy tho'

Go see samzbob!

Ok well that's easy enough to see now I know what I'm looking for :D

Thanks!

Hey all, just another follow-up....

Just had Sam do the alignment for me, same specs as the first one at Dave Hadleys....

The specs I requested were -0.75 degree camber front, 1mm toe-in front. -1 deg camber rear and 1mm toe-in rear.

Sam and I had a discussion over whether or not the toe-in should be that much, or whether it should be toe-out?
All of the discussion I can see on these boards refers to toe-in?

Should there be 1mm toe-in on the front, or have I been a bit over-eager on that setting? I have 4 new Toyo T1Rs... and they're at 38 PSI and I want to see how the tyre wear goes.

The previous 32 PSI was much too low for the car I feel, and I think that contributed to my tyre wear problems.

Anyway, feedback on the settings we did?
-0.75 degree camber front, 1mm toe-in front.
-1 deg camber rear and 1mm toe-in rear.

Cheers!

Just like to post the report for a wheel alignment I had done on my Gita today at The Shock Shop in Penrose.

1mm toe-in is not much. Most people are running 2 or 3 I think.

You will have to watch the very inner tread quite carefully to start with, as they are prone to toe-out wear which can rip the inner tread off very fast. Front and rear!

Naturally the harder you accelerate the more you wear the inner edge of the rear tyres, and negative camber has a part to play in that wear too.

A good reason not to run assymetric tyres that can't be swapped inner for outer!!