Hey,

Found a cheap Ogura Racing Clutch on Trade-Me, found a few specs and aparently its rated at 300PS, weighs 13kg complete (pressure plate, disc, flywheel)

I'm going to be doing it myself as a little backyard project to keep me busy, just wondering if anyone has any tips or tricks that will make things a little easier,

Aparently the V160 weighs around 57kg, so I was thinking the J160 would come in at around 50ish kgs, being a much smaller box... my girlfriend weighs around 48kgs and I can lift her pretty easy (fun :D) so yea, I think its possible...

Anyway yeah, some pointers or tips would be excellent,

Oh and, how much does a stock clutch combo weigh? Flywheel alone is 15kg's isn't it?

Flywheel alone is 21kg from memory.

Easy peasy, rough guide:

1) Undo shifter from inside of the car (had to do it to my Austrian short shifter)
2) Remove drive shaft - oil will come out of the gearbox output, but change the fluid anyway
3) Undo all the bellhousing bolts that you can, I found them all easy to get to under a hoist, not sure about the car being on stands though
4) Undo gearbox cross member, and undo gearbox from g/box mount, and with a large screw driver, carefully pry the bellhousing away from the engine, and the gearbox should slid straight out
4A) Easiest if your on your back, and put the gearbox onto your chest
5) Undo pressure plate bolts and remove the clutch disc
6) Mark the flywheel bolts with twink (unless you got the torque settings) - helps when tightening them back up and remove the heavy stock flywheel
7) Reverse steps, change gearbox fluid and clutch fluid

Mint,

So when you undo the crossmember, you mean unbolt it on the chassis side of the mount, and then on the gearbox side of the crossmember?

So basically slide the gearbox back while holding it horizontal until the input shaft is free of the flywheel?

How much does it weigh?

Would Castrol Syntrax 75w/90 be ok to use, got some lying in the shed...

Never done a tezz, but I have done a few cortinas and the like. It pays to have somthing to use to line the clutch plate up correctly. You can get a tool for it. I had an old input shaft that worked a treat for the cortina, but that's probably not an option I guess.

I'll probably end up using a socket and the extension bar maybe,

But I think the clutch plate on the ORC clutches automagically align centre when they are installed due to the design?

Will find out though,

Ah ok looks like I've gotta stay away from GL5 spec oils as they ruin the syncro's, so it looks like GL3 or GL4,

Prob just get some Castrol VMX then lol

Think they were about the 50kg mark, fairly light.

Yeah try to pull it out horizontally.

Recommend the use of a flywheel alignment tool but no need if you can figure out a way to align it, I just used the tool to avoid any problems

Okay I've got everything unbolted,

Gearbox is free of the engine, but it still wont budge when I try and pull it out, feels like its pivoting about the middle of the left and right sides, I lowered the rear of the box until the gap between the housing and the engine was about 5mm all around,

When I pull the box of is the engine going to sit level on its mounts or will it be leaning back, damn its hard to keep it horizontal when pulling it out...

Things are going well, only thing is I managed to get myself trapped under the car between the ground and the gearbox, miscalculated how much room there was under there, wriggled my way out from under it with only a few scrapes and bruises...

Anyways heres some pics of bits and pieces:

Gearbox Removed:

Crappy Factory Clutch:

Misc Pictures:

Is that discolouration on the clutch mating surfaces normal?

Yeah they are heat marks, you should have seen the marks on my TRD flywheel both times LOL.

Use this as a chance to weigh the factory flywheel LOL

Ah true, so most likely it would need to be machined, with a new pressure plate and disc? (For when I sell it?)

Stock clutch came in at a total of 19kg's, My replacement ORC clutch is 13kg, 6kg less :)

I was under the impression that our standard flywheels are dual mass? In which case I'm pretty sure they can't be machined

Hmmm budget,

Any ideas on what its worth, might flick it for $50 bux or something...

Yeah the dual mass cant be machined.

Yeah if you get $50 for it sell it LOL

I biffed all mine out both stock and TRD setup

Leiden I dont think that's a stock clutch anyway.

A little hard to tell, but it doesn't look like a dual-mass to me.

Is that a solid one-piece flywheel?

I'm not sure now...

The clutch disc facing part of the flywheel (the shiny part :)) is able to rotate slightly independently of the centre area where the flywheel bolts up to the crank,

It also had 'AISIN' writted on the pressure plate,

Can get some better pics tomorrow,

Ah- OK, that's the factory dual-mass. Two-piece flywheel, insulates the drivetrain from the crankshaft..

The orc clutch that will be replacing the factory dual mass,

My bad, measured the stock clutch, its 29kg's,

ORC one is 13kg, so thats 16kg's difference!

OK, so everything is back together now,

Re-measured the Stock flywheel, its definitely 19kgs complete, I dont know where the 29 came from, probably 2.9 stone, who knows, scales are retarded when drunk :wacko:

Anyway, managed to lose a flywheel bolt that came with the ORC clutch, so I tried the stock bolt, which was too long, managed to find another bolt somewhere that was similar in size so used that instead, not sure if the few grams of difference between bolts will matter much, well I hope not and the fact that,

I didn't have a torque wrench, someone stole it (yes you read that correctly!) they could have stole my J160 box that was sitting in the shed, or the new clutch, or old clutch for a boat anchor, but no, they decided to 'borrow' my torque wrench,

So anyway, armed with my Socket, Ratchet, and vacuum cleaner pipe (for ratchet extension) I cranked them all up (yes in stages) until the force was strong enough to eventually lift me of the ground,

Have no idea what amount of torque that would equate too, but I'd say it would be pretty tight,

I didn't use loctite, I know I know I'm pushing my luck :ph43r:

What is the worst that could happen? If the bolts eventually work loose I'd probably notice the vibrations before anything major happened right? Right... reassure me guys...

At least its not a incorrectly lightened stock flywheel, those go off like a landmine!

Oh and my report on the ORC clutch...

Cons:

- Horrible sound when stator engages, metallic and chalkboard like
- Annoying rattle when clutch pedal is pushed (assume its the same for all ORC clutches?)

Pros:

- Excellent bite, ON or OFF (could be a downside though?)
- Engine revs much much better (and faster)
- Feels like more power-to-ground
- NO SLIPPING (What I wanted anyway)
- Firmer clutch pedal
- Clutch Engage point is sooner, so with foot resting on clutch pedal it doesn't slip (bad habit)

Does the ORC flywheel have a spigot bearing?

The rattle is normal for a twin plate clutch....

Whats a spigot bearing?

Is that the one that the input shaft goes into?

Yep, it's the bearing in the centre of the flywheel that carries the front end of the input shaft.

Yup then it did have one, same as the old flywheel, it took that 10mm bit of the end of the input shaft,

I noticed that the input shaft has some movement in it, actual up and down movement...just a little bit...but bad?